About Susana Martins
About SusanaMartins
Susana Martins is a Portuguese fine jewellery designer based in Dubai. Grounded in traditional goldsmithing and expressed through a contemporary perspective, her work is distinguished by bold, sculptural forms and an exploration of architecture, movement and fluidity.
Her depth of understanding of her craft liberates her creativity, allowing her to conceive of an idea and bring it to fruition seamlessly.
01 / Background and Education
Background
and education
Born and raised in northern Portugal, between Porto and Braga, Susana grew up in a region with a deeply rooted goldsmithing tradition. This environment shaped her early understanding of jewellery as both a discipline and a craft.
She completed three years of goldsmithing studies at CINDOR in Porto, followed by a one-year apprenticeship alongside local artisans, where she developed practical knowledge of traditional jewellery-making techniques. She later earned a postgraduate diploma in Jewellery Design from the School of Arts at the Portuguese Catholic University in Porto, expanding her knowledge of design, gemmology and diamond grading.
This combination of technical training, practical experience and formal design education gave Susana a comprehensive understanding of the jewellery-making process, from the first sketch and selection of gemstones to final production.
02 / Career Path
Career path
Following her education, Susana built her career through bespoke jewellery, design development and creative consultancy. These roles broadened her practice from individual pieces to complete collections, collaborations and multidisciplinary projects.
She later launched her eponymous fine jewellery label, Susana Martins (SMJ). Her work has since been presented internationally through exhibitions, private commissions and collaborations across Europe, the Middle East and North America.
Her practice has also extended beyond jewellery. Among her commissioned projects is a permanent jewelled sculpture created for the Jaguar Lounge at the Automobile Museum in Málaga, Spain.
03 / Design Language
Design language
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Architecture
Susana draws inspiration from architecture, historical design, movement and the details observed in everyday life.
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Art Deco
Art Deco remains a recurring reference for its geometry, balance and technical innovation, but her work is not defined by a single period or aesthetic.
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Sculptural form
Through volume, proportion and negative space, Susana creates jewellery that responds to the body and evolves through the way it is worn.
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Movement and fluidity
Movement and fluidity are equally important to her creative process. Gestures, natural contours and the way a piece responds to its wearer influence how each design is shaped and considered from every angle. This interplay allows structured geometry and organic lines to coexist throughout her collections.
04 / Current Practice
Current practice
Based in Dubai, Susana continues to develop her signature collections while undertaking bespoke commissions, creative collaborations and consultancy projects for other jewellery brands.
Her practice moves between signature collections and one-of-a-kind pieces, maintaining a personal approach to fine jewellery. Whether developing a new design or reimagining gemstones with personal significance, Susana remains closely involved throughout the process, preserving the dialogue between designer, piece and wearer.
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